One crisp morning I wandered down a quiet cobbled street and stepped into a humble Baroque church The church of Our Lady Victorious and of the Prague Infant Jesus in Prague’s historic Lesser Town. Inside, I found myself face-to-face with one of the city’s most beloved treasures – a 47 cm tall statue of the Infant Jesus, resplendent in gold and silk. Don’t be fooled by its size. This Infant Jesus of Prague is world-famous, drawing pilgrims from across the globe who seek its aid in times of need. You might heard whispers of miracles and legends, but nothing compares to experiencing this place firsthand.
A Little History of the Little Jesus
According to legend, the statue – known in Czech as Pražské Jezulátko – was carved by a Spanish monk in the 16th century. It made its way to Bohemia as a wedding gift: a Spanish noblewoman, Doña Isabella, gave the precious figurine to her daughter Marie Manrique de Lara when she married a Czech nobleman in Prague.
Marie’s own daughter, Princess Polyxena of Lobkowicz, treasured the little Jesus as a protective talisman (her first husband had mysteriously lost three wives before her!). Polyxena not only outlived him but eventually donated the statue to the Carmelite monastery at this very church in 1628. Imagine that hand-off: a princess entrusting a tiny figure of Christ to this then-poor church, saying it had brought her blessings and would now bless others.
Wars and upheavals soon swept through Europe, and the Infant Jesus statue was not spared. In 1631, during the Thirty Years’ War, Prague was invaded and the church plundered – the little statue was discarded and forgotten amidst the chaos. Years later, a monk named Father Cyril discovered the dusty figure in 1638, only to find its arms broken off. Legend has it that as Father Cyril knelt in prayer, he heard the statue speak: “Have mercy on me, and I will have mercy on you. Give me my arms, and I will give you peace.” Taking this as a sign, they repaired the Infant Jesus.
Almost immediately, reports of miracles began to pour in – the sick found healing, the blind regained sight, and Prague itself was said to be spared from a Swedish siege in 1639 after prayers to the Infant. From then on, the devotion only grew. The Carmelites started a tradition of dressing the statue in festive robes for holy days, and they carried small replicas on their missionary travels, spreading the fame of the Prague Infant to distant lands.
Miracles, Myths, and Meaning
Standing in the church, you could feel the centuries of faith enveloping me. It’s not just history for history’s sake – for many, this statue represents hope and comfort. Over the years, countless miraculous stories have been attributed to the Infant Jesus of Prague. The most common tales speak of healing from serious illness, protection during plagues and war, and help in everyday crises. One famous story recounts a gravely ill young boy in 19th-century Prague who was mysteriously cured after his family prayed before the Infant Jesus. Are you skeptical? Perhaps. But watching an elderly woman wipe away tears while kneeling before the altar, I understood that for believers this little figure means something much larger than itself.
The Little Jesuse’s influence isn’t limited to Prague or even to Catholic countries. In fact, it has a surprisingly global footprint. People from places as far as Ireland, Italy, the Philippines, and Mexico have their own local traditions inspired by the Infant of Prague. Over time, royals and popes have paid their respects here too. The statue was ceremoniously crowned and today it has multiple tiny crowns; Pope Benedict XVI himself visited the Church and Little Jesus in 2009 and gifted a new golden crown to the Infant. All these stories and honors underscore how culturally significant the Infant Jesus of Prague has become – not just a religious icon, but a symbol of Prague’s spiritual heritage persevering through the ages.
Stepping Inside the Shrine of the Infant Jesus
Where to find the Infant Jesus? When you visit the Church of Our Lady Victorious (as this church is formally known), you’ll immediately sense why this place is special. The church itself, built in 1613, is one of Prague’s first Baroque buildings. Its white walls and high vaulted ceilings create an airy space, while the altars drip with ornate Baroque gold and silver decor that catch the candlelight. As you walk in, your eyes will be drawn straight to a shining altar at the side with golden angels and rays of light. There, encased in glass amid all that splendor, stood the Infant Jesus statue in its regal attire.
On my last visit, the little Jesus wore a rich red gown embroidered with gold, and a delicate crown sat atop his soft-featured head. In one tiny hand he held a golden globus cruciger (the orb topped with a cross symbolizing Christ’s reign over the world), while the other hand was raised in a blessing gesture. Everytime it is fascinating to see such a small figure (about 19 inches high) given a place of honor on a grand altar – a striking visual of humility amidst grandeur.
Despite a few other tourists milling about, there was silence in the church. Everyone tries to quietly slip into wooden pews to pray. The atmosphere is typically very peaceful and reverent. You should definitely took a seat to simply enjoy it all.
Church owns around 46 different costumes for the Infant Jesus, donated over centuries. The robes aren’t just for show – they’re changed few times a year to correspond with the liturgical seasons:
- white for Christmas and Easter,
- purple for Lent and Advent,
- red for Holy week, Pentecost and Feasts of the Holy Cross,
- green for the rest of the year (common dress colour)
This means every visit could greet you with the Infant in a different elegant dress!
Hidden Treasures and Tips for Your Visit
There is something that can be easily missed: a small museum up the stairs in the back of the church. Don’t skip this! Tucked away above the nave is a little exhibit showcasing some of the most beautiful robes and relics associated with the Infant Jesus. Just climb the narrow staircase and find yourself face-to-face with centuries of history in cloth form. There was a faded, delicate gown hand-sewn by Empress Maria Theresa in 1754, its embroidery still sparkling faintly after all these years. In another display, a vibrant cloak from Mexico may catch your eye – one of many international gifts sent to Prague out of devotion (robes in the collection come from all over, including Vietnam, South Korea, and beyond).
Perhaps the most surprising artifact is a modern lavish robe donated by Brazilian writer Paulo Coelho, who, as the story goes, visited and prayed here in 1982 asking for help to become a writer – and returned years later with this gift after selling 200 million books! Seeing that personal token makes the history feel very much alive and ongoing.
As you explore the church, take a moment to appreciate other details too. The high altar painting and side chapels are beautiful examples of Baroque art, and there’s a richly carved pulpit draped in gold. But truly, the Infant Jesus altar is the heart of it all. Even if you’re not religious, it’s hard not to be moved by the devotion concentrated in this little corner of center of Prague.
Insider tip: if you want a quieter experience, visit in the early morning or late afternoon when tour groups are fewer. And consider attending a Mass here (services are offered in multiple languages) to witness the local and international community that gathers around the Infant Jesus – it’s an experience of Prague’s living heritage.
Getting There and Nearby Sights
The Church of Our Lady Victorious and of the Prague Infant Jesus is located at Karmelitská 9 in Malá Strana (Lesser Town). It’s an easy 5-minute walk from the Charles Bridge, tucked away on a side street off the main Lesser Town Square. You can’t miss the white facade with its simple towers – a modest exterior for the marvels inside.
You can use Prague’s public transportation. There is a tram stop next to the Church called Hellichova. It is very close (1 stop) to Malostranské náměstí (Lesser Town Square).
Entry is free, and the church is open daily (roughly 8:30am to 7pm most days) with a mid-day break during services. The little museum of the Infant’s outfits is also free to visit (open in the mornings and afternoons, except around lunchtime and Sunday morning). You can contribute. Your donations help maintain the building, preserve the robes, and support the Carmelite community.
Photography is allowed but be respectful of worshippers and prayers – you should switch your phone to silent mode.
While you’re in the area, plan to explore more of Malá Strana’s charm. Here are a few nearby stops to round out your visit:
- Charles Bridge – The iconic 14th-century bridge lined with statues is just down the street, about 5 minutes away.
- John Lennon Wall – A colorful wall of ever-changing graffiti and messages of peace, tucked in a courtyard just a couple blocks from the church. It’s a short stroll and a favorite photo spot.
- Malostranské Náměstí & St. Nicholas Church – The Lesser Town Square (Malostranské nám.) is a 5-minute walk and features cozy cafes, Baroque palaces, and the stunning St. Nicholas Church with its gigantic dome and frescoes. Pop inside to compare its grandeur to the humble warmth of the Infant Jesus’s shrine.
- Kampa Island – Head toward the river and you’ll find this tranquil island park. It’s perfect for a leisurely walk along the water, with views of the bridge. There’s also the Kampa Museum of modern art if you’re inclined.
- Prague Castle (Hradčany) – If you’re up for a hike (or a quick tram ride), the path up Nerudova Street will lead you to Prague Castle above Malá Strana. From the castle gardens, you can actually look back and spot the red rooftops of the church. It’s a bit uphill, but the panorama of the city – and knowing the Infant Jesus is watching over it below – makes it worthwhile.
- Petřín cable car is 3 minutes away
- Vrtbovká garden is 1 minute away and the garden is very lovely.
Visiting the Infant Jesus of Prague is far more than just ticking off a tourist sight. It feels like stepping into a living storybook – one where history, faith, and culture intertwine in a small statue that has witnessed the rise and fall of empires, and the private hopes of millions.
Once, as I left the church, I stopped one more time by the door. A ray of morning sun had just broken through, illuminating the little Infant on his altar in a soft glow. In that moment, I understood why generations have been drawn here. Prague is a city of many magnificent churches and grand monuments, but sometimes the most miraculous experiences come in the smallest of packages. Whether you come seeking a moment of peace, a brush with history, or just out of curiosity, the Infant Jesus of Prague offers a warm welcome – one local’s beloved secret that I’m thrilled to share with you.
Safe travels, and požehnaný den – have a blessed day!